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Moab Climbing

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Basics
Location
Southeastern Utah
Season:
Early spring to late fall
Rock Type:
Varying sandstone
Routes:
Lifetime

Description

Moab is one of the great climbing destinations of the west, completely different from Yosemite and Joshua Tree but just as unique and challenging. There is so much climbing in Moab that it would be literally impossible to climb all the routes available here. As an added bonus, the climbing season is quite long; even though it gets cold and can snow, about two thirds of the year is open season for climbing.

There are upwards of 30 different major climbing destinations and areas within the general vicinity of Moab. Whether climbing a giant sandstone butte ("beaute" not "but") or a giant tower, the ever changing rock formations and its variety will keep anyone coming back for more. Sandstone is the rock to climb in the area which has its difficulties. Some routes are far more crumbly than others so using common sense and a guide book are well advised. Also, red colored chalk which matches the rock is part of the local etiquette and can be found in any of the local outfitting shops.

The best thing about Moab is that it has everything: a great town with good eats, world renowned biking, hiking, national parks, rivers, and enough space to spread everyone out. Definitely, the red sandstone and its marvelous climbs will be etched into any climber’s memory bank and Technicolor dreams.

Rock Climbing

Thousands of routes, and many of them you won't find in a guidebook....

Castle Valley is the home of the desert tower climb, or we should say climbs....

If a rather massive and convoluted hike to the Cirque itself doesn't bother you, this is a pretty fine series of climbs....

Soft stone sandstone piled up in towers and buttresses and mostly with very easy approaches, Arches is a desert climber paradise....

Between Moab and Dewey Bridge, climbing is everywhere, and many of the routes haven't even been established yet....

Wall Street has many, many routes and may not be large enough to accommodate them....

American Fork Canyon is a very modern climbing destination, the result of conscious local effort to develop unique and challenging climbs....

A nice, shady canyon in the summer and rather small, Ferguson Canyon is also prime for ice climbing in the colder season....

These are extremely high, extremely difficult climbs....

Kane Springs Canyon's routes are recent ones, largely established within the last couple of decades....

Location
Southeastern Utah
Rock Type:
Varying sandstone
Routes:
Lifetime
Season:
Early spring to late fall
Camping Info
summer months can be very crowded
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